Halfway between the trail junction and the
bottom of the Canyon is The Citadel at 11,738 ft. It looks more
impressive in bad weather. LeConte Canyon and its creek meet
Palisade Canyon and its creek 12 miles after leaving Muir Pass.
The two creeks come together to form the Middle Fork of the Kings
River. Both times I've reached the bottom of LeConte canyon and
started up the Palisade Canyon I've given up after about a mile.
I just couldn't get my legs to work going uphill after the beating
they'd taken coming downhill for 12 miles. The first time I went
down this trail they had just finished replacing the bridge that
crosses the river to head downstream (the direction the trail
used to go). Several years later when I went back to hike the
John Muir the bridge was gone again. Maybe that's one reason
they decided to reroute the trail up Palisade Canyon. Originally
the trail went down the Middle Fork of the Kings to Cartridge
Creek before heading up to Cartridge Pass. On the south side
of Mather Pass near the South Fork of the Kings the map shows
part of the old trail which goes over the pass to Lake Basin
where it ends.
One section of this trail about a mile below
Lower Palisade Lake is called the Granite Staircase. I once saw
a slide show at REI given by two guys that skied the John Muir
Trail with the late Galen
Rowell. They said Galen fell coming down the Granite Staircase
and ripped the toe of his ski boot off. They ended up putting
screws through the bottom of his boot directly into the ski so
he was able to make it to Devils Postpile. There they were able
to phone a friend to ski in with replacement boots. Galen used
photos from this trip for his article on the John Muir Trail
in the April 1989 issue of National Geographic. I was surprised
to see what I think was a Fisher
near the top of the Granite Staircase.
The last picture is taken from the Golden
Staircase.
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