Hundreds of people a day hike the first
3 1/2 miles of this route each day to see the waterfalls. After
leaving the top of the falls the number of people drops rapidly.
Early in the morning you'll see a number of people heading to
the top of Half Dome. If you care to make an attempt at breaking
the record its 2 hours and 38 minutes set by Hari Mix. Some people
only hike in about a mile till they can see Vernal Falls from
the bridge, and some continue to the top of Vernal Falls via
the Mist Trail, a trail I'll never recommend if you're carrying
a backpack. Some of those people continue up to the top of Nevada
Falls. People have gone over the top of the falls so don't get
too close while in the river. The trail that remains close to
the river is the hardest. The John Muir Trail uses the other
one. Unfortunately this trail was paved at one time to the top
of the falls so its hard on the feet. At the top of Nevada Falls
you reach whats called Little Yosemite Valley. A number of people
hike only this far and stay in the backpackers camp, a place
I try to avoid. If you're continuing up the Merced River you
must hike the length of Little Yosemite Valley on a sandy dusty
trail for about 4 miles till you are allowed to camp.
Continuing on the John Muir Trail you'll
need to hike another 2 miles till you reach another place to
camp near the junction with the Clouds Rest Trail, a popular
place for bears too. From there you'd continue on a gentle climb
for about 3 miles on the remains of an old lateral moraine till
you start climbing again. This lateral
moraine is about 2000 feet above the river below, which gives
you an indication of how deep the glacier was in this area. Approaching
Sunrise High Sierra Camp you'll get some great views of the surrounding
peaks.
The hiking from Sunrise High Sierra Camp
to Tuolumne Meadows is an easy one, with an easy climb to the
highest point on the trail. You'll also get great views of Cathedral
Peak along the way, and pass Cathedral Lakes. Camping is not
allowed at the lower lake. Its an easy descent to the highway
in Tuolumne Meadows. Unless you've parked your car there you'll
either have to hike the remaining distance to the the store,
which is also near the junction with other trails, or take the
free shuttle. At the store you can find plenty of supplies, and
there is also a post office so you can mail food to yourself
if you're on a long hike. There is also a backpackers campground
here. You'll need a hiking permit to stay there. Things may have
changed, but every time I've used it I've registered at a stone
building just west of the river. This same stone building is
also used by winter rangers. Their reports are available on Yosemite
website and they'll include stuff like animals seen, avalanche
dangers etc. They may not be there all the time, as they do go
on patrols. Tuolumne Meadows is also a popular destination in
winter. The winter of 2007/2008 is the first in a long time where
to road to the east entrance wasn't plowed since a resort there
didn't open. It remains to see if that continues in the future.
If the road is plowed its a downhill ski into the meadow, and
one of the classic ski trips is to continue following the highway
either to Crane Flat, or to Yosemite Valley via the Snow Creek
Trail, the only trail into the valley that remains open in winter
due to the sun that shines on it.
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